A bright future in fashion?
Tariffs, unimaginable moral failings, and Republicans crashing global markets
We had a flurry of new subscribers this week (again thank you for that!), so to catch up on things since Refinement is Resistance’s debut on Inauguration Day, below please find our past issues:
A recipe for diplomacy with Paris restauranteur Oliver Woodhead.
Barbarian’s on the inside, styling in solidarity, and Goods for the Study.
The Voice of America silenced; Republicans dig deep on evil-doing; et “Une Robe pour Mrs. Harris.”
Oscar de la Renta gets a reprieve, plus lessons learned writ large from Leica
I walked Bergdorf Goodman’s third floor yesterday, on day six of the financial markets freefall inflicted on the world by America, thanks entirely to the Republican regime and their “Liberation Day” tariffs announcement.
As I took in one beautiful collection after the next, I wondered how the fashion industry will find its footing in the coming weeks and months. An inability to plan for the season ahead is any fashion house’s — and retailer’s — absolute worst nightmare. And here we are, existentially so, now with no end in sight.
I took stock of Bergdorf’s third floor brand curation: Alaia (Paris), Altuzarra (New York), Balmain (Paris), Balenciaga (Paris), Burberry (UK), Celine (Paris), Chloé (Paris), Dries van Noten (Antwerp), Fendi (Rome), Gabriela Hearst (New York), Givenchy (Paris), Jason Wu Collection (New York), Jil Sander (Milan), Libertine (Los Angeles), Loewe (Madrid), McQueen (London), Michael Kors Collection (New York), Miu Miu (Milan), Phoebe Philo (London), Prada (Milan), Proenza Schouler (New York), Sacai (Tokyo), and Stella McCartney (London).
Most, if not all, now have unspeakable tariffs imposed on them, which they will navigate day to day, week to week, month to month, season to season. Many fashion houses must suddenly re-think their production chains, and they must now plan for any eventuality.
My head explodes.
As U.S. national safety and security is dismantled before our eyes and the rule of law too — with DoD, DoJ, USAID, NIH, IRS, and others firing tens of thousands ongoing— it will be difficult for the private sector to absorb all of the above.
Soon, so many around us, civil servants and otherwise, may be unable to pay the mortgage or rent, car payments, insurance, taxes, medical needs, or, you know, be able to put food on the table.
All the while, universities have had students and staff “disappeared” (a new word for me) as they continue to be stripped of significant government funding.
Also, morally rudderless U.S. law firms Paul Weiss and Sadden Arps — who know better but clearly don’t care — caved immediately to the poster child of racist cruelty and greed. They could have served as pillars of resistance and deployed their incredible resources to fight behind our democracy. But they will now instead respectively donate (donate!) $40 million and $100 million in pro-bono (free work) commitments to support Satan’s special projects.
So I know, Bergdorf Goodman’s third floor global commerce narrative might not seem to be the most pressing of our problems.
But let’s look more closely at the global luxury fashion industry, which in 2024 was valued at $660 billion, and all who work in it. They produce and sell the fabrics, design the pieces, market them, deliver them, and sell them in stores. And an enormous fashion media structure operates around it.
Most of us only notice the shiny people who work in an outward facing fashion, but the reality is that there are millions who also quietly earn a living within this world, and provide very unglamorous critical support.
Those who work within said $660 billion luxury global fashion industry now face unimaginable uncertainty beyond our wildest dreams. Their jobs hang in the balance, and they too now worry about putting food on the table for themselves, and their families. All thanks entirely to one man, and the 77 million Americans who voted for him. They own this.
I spent this past weekend in Philadelphia for Georgetown University festivities, and on Saturday morning, we walked around the city with dear friends. We popped into places like Independence Hall, where The Declaration of Independence and U.S. Constitution were both debated and signed. We also stopped by Carpenter’s Hall, the first meeting place of the Continental Congress. As we walked around, we reflected on the courage and conviction that our forefounders modeled for us.
Had their efforts behind founding democracy gone wrong, their opposition would have likely killed them. Give me liberty or give me death, indeed. Americans who voted Republican this past November might as well go spit on their graves.
After this well-timed walkabout, we headed to 1400 John F. Kennedy Boulevard (which turned out to be City Hall) for the “Hands Off” protest against this Republican regime and the Trump/Musk Coup.
It was my husband Widge’s “first protest” (my daughter Margaux and I kicked off our protest careers in 2017). These protests took place in all 50 states, Washington, DC, and Puerto Rico, with additional protests against the Trump regime in Austria, France, Germany, Mexico, The Netherlands, Portugal, and The UK.
It felt important to be there. To be part of the crowds in the streets, to see the clever signage, and to experience that thing they call solidarity. We made new friends with fellow Georgetown alums, and afterward many of our longtime Georgetown friends — Republicans and Democrats — shared that they regretted not joining us.
Georgetown’s larger community gathered that evening for cocktails and a glamorous dinner at The National Constitution Center- with none other than Speaker Emerita Nancy Pelosi in attendance- and she was given a standing ovation lead by a Republican in the front row. Julie Crispin, your country salutes you!
But not everyone in that room stood, in honor of Speaker Emerita Nancy Pelosi’s lifetime of service to our country. The number who chose not to stand was small. We know who you are.
If, theoretically, Liz Cheney had been in that room, someone with whom I mostly disagree in matters of policy, I would have been a “Julie Crispin.” By leading a standing ovation for Liz Cheney, for her lifetime of service, her conviction and courage, and for her commitment (especially in the last two years!) to our democracy — this is how it’s done.
Others in attendance this past weekend at our Georgetown-fest included (NIH and global health Covid hero) Dr. Anthony Fauci and voice of mission and ministry (and, in my opinion, hero behind democracy), James Martin S.J.
So what’s next behind standing up?
Well, April 19 for starters. A contingent who took part in this past weekend’s “Hands Off” protests against this Republican regime and the Trump/Musk Coup have organized another day of action. The 50501 group is promoting nationwide protests in all 50 U.S. states on April 19.
Please sign up here. We need to double our numbers out there on the streets, and keep it going. No excuses. Democracy now completely depends on you showing up behind.
What I’m reading this week:
’s Lucid. “Welcome to the Autocratic Backfire. Imposing their will on the nation and the world is what matters to strongmen, but destructive policies made in an echo chamber have consequences.”’s “12 small reasons for hope.” An important check list for this moment and moving forward.