Society's new columns: who's in, who's out
Plus: a style report from Bushwick and on being Bill Cunningham, the famous photographer.
In her letter from Paris yesterday, Monica Ainley DLV explored street style coverage from the 90s to today, starting with the late, legendary New York Times photo journalist Bill Cunningham, and moving into Scott Schuman’s modern body of work, too.
After reading Monica’s letter, I thought a lot about Bill, with whom I had the honor to work at Bergdorf Goodman, as Merchandising Editor at Vogue, and during my own seven years at The New York Times.
Colorful memories flooded back, like Bill introducing me to his friend Mohesh, tailor extraordinaire, who created the costumes for smash-hit Broadway productions like Phantom of the Opera. Bill also suggested that I visit B & J Fabrics at 525 7th Avenue since they sat directly across the street from 550 7th Avenue, the legendary garment district building which at the time housed the design studios & showrooms for Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Geoffrey Beane, Anne Klein, and illustrious others. These names would send their fabric “overages” to B & J, who re-sold them.
Mohesh designed a muslin — a design prototype made in my measurements- to keep in his studio, and would whip up a dress for me (for the princely sum of $100) when I brought him fabric from B & J. Bill- meanwhile- monitored fabric deliveries ongoing from “550” to “525.” And whenever I saw him, he would always utter things like: “Child, child! Oscar just dropped three bolts of the MOST MAHVELOUS indigo and white floral print, in a divine silk duchess satin. Go there, child. Now. Hurry!”
Photo credit: Skip Boles/Getty Images
Before I worked at the Times, I bumped into Bill one day on 57th Street, steps from his corner on 5th Avenue, where he frequently photographed passers-by. During our chat, Bill casually asked about my shirt — a blue & white striped men’s Brooks Brother’s oxford number. It was frayed and technically the property of my then-boyfriend/now husband, Widge. Bill quickly snapped my picture as we were saying goodbye.
A few months after I began at Vogue, this image popped up unexpectedly in Bill’s “On the Street” column in the Times. Titled “Borrowing from the Boys,” my photo sat next to that of Crown Princess Marie-Chantal & Crown Prince Pavlos of Greece and Denmark. (MC also sporting her husband’s shirt.) On the other side of my photo was that of our Bergdorf Goodman 5th floor cashier, looking super sharp while hitting the streets on her lunch break.
Even my new boss, Vogue’s then-publisher Ron Gallotti — aka the real-life character on whom Mr. Big of Sex and the City was based — duly noted to one and all my appearance in Bill’s column.
And, on that note, readers, stay tuned for my upcoming stories, re: Ron’s antics from inside Vogue in the late 90s. Subscribe to Refinement is Resistance here, so you don’t miss!
It’s hard to convey just how well known and beloved Bill Cunningham was. Not just in fashion and philanthropic circles, but with undercover FBI agents in Times Square, the NYPD, NYC doormen, uptown establishment types, downtown artists, and those on the forward edge of anything. And everyone within his enormous universe was sure they had their own bond with Bill — myself included — because they did.
Bill wove together the mosaic of New York, through his love of fashion and style, and deep respect for the individual. New York loved him right back: for his character, integrity, and quality of refinement that appeared to harken from another age.
As I reflected yesterday on what it is that I want to inspire through Refinement is Resistance, I realized it’s that I want us all to be more like Bill. Especially since we are all right now sorting ourselves into one of two new “society columns.”
We have our “Polite Society Column” on the left- the 75 million Americans who voted to uphold the American values and the alienable rights of all. As Bill Cunningham once famously declared, “Money is the cheapest thing. Liberty and freedom are the most expensive.”
Shivved far right, somehow still on this same page, we have another column called “Who’s The Worst.” In which we find my 77 million American country men and women who voted in 2016/2020/2024 against democracy, against human decency, and against the inalienable rights of all.
Bill united the left and the right columns above- through his ability to bring out the better angels in us all. And in real time, you could watch self-perceived Manhattan Masters of The Universe - of every stripe - literally melt in his presence. I believe Bill Cunningham would find today’s epic degrees of (grotesque) self-absorption- and this contagion of aggrieved intolerance- to be unfathomable.
In 2008 in Paris, Bill was awarded the honorary title: Officier de l’ordre des Arts et des Lettres by the French Ministry of Culture, “in recognition of significant contributions to the arts, literature, or the propagation of these fields.” Bill also received the Carnegie Hall Medal of Excellence, and in 2009, he was named a “Living Landmark” by the New York Landmarks Conservancy.
And the same stretch of 57th Street and Fifth Avenue — where he once snapped me in my boyfriend’s shirt — is now called “Bill Cunningham Corner.”
Bill Cunningham achieved a transcendent human status during his time on earth, through fashion, elegance, grace, inclusion and refinement. Through uncommon character, kindness, authenticity, and integrity.
In this moment, we must all strive to be more like Bill.
The dispatch: An interview with stylist Becky Akinyode
And now as we style ourselves ongoing behind saving democracy, below please meet my friend Becky Akinyode, the stylist, model, designer’s muse, and phenomenon in fashion. Becky lives in Bushwick, Brooklyn.
PHOTO CREDIT: Rommel Demano/BFA.com
Becky in Christoper John Rogers, at Bergdorf Goodman’s dinner in honor of Christoper John Rogers.
Becky, in the image above, you are arriving at a dinner at Bergdorf Goodman in honor of (phenom and) young designer Christopher John Rogers.
The event took place a few days before The Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute’s Met Ball in which Christopher John Roger’s work appeared.
What was your inner dialogue with yourself- as you made your (incredibly glamorous) entrance?
When I walked into the room, I remember thinking about how I had interned at Bergdorf Men’s Store when I was in college. And really thought about how I was now walking back in, as a guest of Chris.
It was a full circle moment, and I thought about how much Chris and I had both grown since we met. I felt proud.
How do things feel right now on your own journey?
I’m happy that I never gave up, and instead continued to chase my dreams. It took a lot of hard work and determination to get where I am. The journey is never ending, but I’m proud to have come this far.
PHOTO CREDIT: Becky Akinyode
Where were you born, where did you grow up, and what have some of your most formative experiences been to date?
I was born in Washington, D.C. and grew up in Prince George’s County, Maryland.
My most formative experiences have been going to Georgetown University, and the summer internships that I had in college — the latter made me fall in love with New York City. Also, I worked at Interview Magazine, during the Karl Templer years.
And I remember going to “Fashion Battles” growing up, when various high schools in the Washington, D.C. area would put on fashion shows. A group of judges would in the end crown a winner, and it was amazing.
How did you break into the small, and some might say rather elite, world of New York fashion styling?
Internships, and wonderful friendships that I made along the way, allowed me to break into the industry. Like any industry, there’s some gatekeeping, but I try to have my work speak for itself.
I work hard, I’m humble, determined, and respectful. I also prayed a lot. LOL.
PHOTO CREDIT: Becky Akinyode Becky starring in a Tommy Hilfiger wheatpaste campaign in New York.
What do you want for yourself in the coming year? And what do you want for the world?
I want to create amazing and inspiring work. I’d love to do more shoots internationally, and maybe have a TV show one day.
For the world, I hope for stricter gun laws, fewer monopolies, adequate healthcare, better environmental policies, open borders, LGBTQIA rights, and fewer religious fanatics.
👀 Coming up next week…
Next week’s interview will feature Oliver Woodhead, chef and owner of Paris’ L’Entente Brasserie, who elevates the art of diplomacy - in his own inimitable style.
What I’m reading this week
My favorite Substacks on style:
Monica Ainley DLV: Fashion, style and cultural insight from a clever Canadian fashion journalist, who is married to a Parisian and raising tiny, adorable French children.
Leandra Medine Cohen: Fashion reporting complete with inner-life perspective delivered from Manhattan’s Upper East Side. See also “raising tiny, adorable children”.
Amy Odell: Fashion and culture journalist and New York Times best-selling author of Anna Wintour’s biography. Amy’s letter is a must-follow for up to the minute analysis in fashion and media.
Am I missing your favorite read? Tell me in the comments!
Loved this! Bill Cunningham was indeed a legend.