Secrets stylish people never share
A spotlight on some inside spots that those in the know try to keep to themselves.
Every stylish person has an off the radar secret spot into which they can drop themselves when the mood strikes — either by themself, or with select others.
And same said stylish people never share the name of their secret spot. Like, ever.
Princess Diana had San Lorenzo in Knightsbridge. Okay, fine. The restaurant was not much of a secret, and instead ridiculously the opposite — as an epic social situation dating from the swinging sixties. But she was Princess Diana after all, so she could always get in. (San Lorenzo sadly closed for good in 2022).
I’m disclosing here some cherished insider treasures, in New York and Paris, to make sure we have recommendations on both sides of the Atlantic.
L’Entente, Le British Brasserie
For the French fashion brand set, it’s L’Entente, Le British Brasserie in Paris’ 2ème, to which they love to privately steal away for team lunches, any re-grouping, or for special celebrations.
They never tell anyone that they go there. Because then L’Entente would cease to be their secret. But I did interview Oliver Woodhead, the owner and chef of L’Entente recently; you can read our conversation here. And true to the restaurant’s reputation, he declined to share who his most colorful regulars are. “That would be kissing and telling I’m afraid,” he told me. “But we do have quite a healthy splattering of regular French actors and actresses, politicians, and fashion players.”
So go to L’Entente, to find out what all the fuss is about.
But don’t tell anyone.
Le French Diner
Moving across the pond, anyone who’s anyone within Manhattan’s restaurant universe covets Le French Diner as a secret escape. Those in the know take every chance they can to drop in on chef-owner Pierre Moulin, to have him take care of them.
Any visit requires squeezing oneself into its tiny one room space, which includes the kitchen/bar with 9 or so stools, and a few teeny tables scootched into the corners. Notable fans include:
Williamsburg, Brooklyn’s The Four Horsemen’s team
the chef at SoHo’s Estela
the owners of the West Village’s Anton’s
the powers that be at L’Industrie and Rose Bakery
The fact that everyone sits on top of one another contributes epically to the vibe. As does watching up close as Pierre prepares magic in his tiny kitchen.
One illustrious regular perfectly described it to Grub Street in 2023: “In French, you would say sans chichi- like, there is none of the sparkle around it…it’s just, like, 20 people crammed into a tiny room and you have to say ‘Behind’ to the chef when you want to go to the bathroom.” Another patron added: “Everyone who gets a seat feels special, like they were let into a party that just happened at random…but there’s nothing random about it.”
“This is Le French Diner, a downtown restaurant that has in the past couple of years emerged to become the place that the people who live and breathe restaurants go when they want something to eat, to avoid any gimmicks or trends, and to forget for the night that Resy even exists,” Chris Crowley wrote in the Grub Street piece.
So where does Pierre Moulin, chef/owner of Le French Diner go when he wants to get away from it all? Why, Estela apparently! Fortunately Estela — the Michelin starred, shiny yet understated neighborhood spot much celebrated on New York’s restaurant scene — sits just a few blocks à l’ouest of Le French Diner.
Estela
I was fortunate to recently be a fly on the wall one night at Estela when Pierre popped in to join at the bar. Fellow diners either did not know who he is, or did not notice him.
But team Estela did. As they practically lost their minds, greeting him with “Chef, Chef!” There was much attention paid to assist him with the selection of his special bottle of red, and substantive follow-up conversation on his selection of courses.
Team Estela plus Pierre decided on the sashimi-grade tuna pounded thin and dressed with a dollop of inky pil pil sauce, followed by the ricotta dumplings with mushrooms and Pecorino Sardo.
You see how this works. Everyone has their place. To escape to either by themself, or with their carefully selected people.
Fiat Cafe
But there’s another spot that stylish people work hard not to share with anyone else. And since they will not — I will.
The “sans chichi” description of Le French Diner applies equally here, this time at Fiat Cafe in NoLita.
Fiat Cafe comes “Le Routard recommended” per the tiny decal to the left of their front door. Routard.com boasts the largest community of French-speaking travellers in the world and offers its members recommendations “pas de côté” (off the beaten path).
Here’s how a typical day in the life at Fiat Cafe goes:
Mornings: French families feeding small French children an American breakfast. Brilliant.
Late mornings: French men d’un certain age arguing en français about French politicians- over a long drawn out cappuccino.
Lunch: The SoHo set slipping away for lunch with co-workers and friends.
Dinner: Super shiny twenty-somethings and other sophisticates, plus circles of creatives, and stylish NYU students.
You can book ahead, or walk in pretty much any time you want. You will likely be embraced by French co-owner (married to an Italian) Anna. And if you are a regular, this will come with a quick sit down/personal catch up (in French or English) before you begin your meal.
Fiat Cafe conjures up a glamorous French Tabac (an oxymoron if there ever was one) since it is so snugly cool while drippingly warm, and straightforwardly delicious.
It feels like a jewel box you would so hope to discover in wandering around in Rome, perhaps in Trastevere. Yet speaking in a French accent. And okay, yes, fine — all existing only in New York.
If you do go, order the radicchio, gorgonzola, and apple salad. And the gnocchi. But don’t mention it to anyone.
What I’m reading this week:
: Fashion journalist and immediate former head of Vogue France (the French equivalent to Anna Wintour when she was Editor-in-Chief of American Vogue). Eugénie, now a mother of two tiny adorable French children, reflects on fashion, style, life, and family- complètement en français.: Author of Drinking French, My Paris Kitchen, and The Perfect Scoop. Pastry chef, and cookbook author. Inviting and delicious.Have you guys been to any to the recommended restaurants? What’s your order — sound off in the comments or hit reply in your inbox. Till next time!