Styling Yourself for The Great Sorting of Humanity.
C'EST LA VIE, C'EST LA GUERRE, C'EST LA POMME DE TERRE.
If fashion communicates who you are without having to speak a word, then what we witnessed at the United States Inauguration was a sartorial hall of horrors.
I’ve lost sleep since, trying to distill. Because if fashion is our voice, then style is how we amplify it.
And as I see it, the narratives imposed on the rest of us break down into two categories: “Fascist Fashionistas” and “NON. Just NON. On Neutrality.”
We’ll go ugly early in this exploration. Sans photos- since they’re too grim(m reaper) to re-live.
AND THEN…WE’LL MOVE INTO THE LIGHT!!!
TO PARIS AND NEW YORK!!!
FOR DESIGN, INSPIRATION, AND JOY!!!
COMPLETE WITH PRETTY PICTURES!!!
So here goes:
FASCIST “FASHIONISTAS"
“MELANIA TRUMP TIPS HER HAT”
The New York Times described Mrs. Trump’s Inauguration daytime look as “Melania Trump Tips Her Hat”.
Adam Lippes designed the suit, and Eric Javits the hat.
The message that I believe these two designers aided/abetted/equipped Melania to inflict unto the masses? “I Stand with Satan.”
Nothing more to see/say here. Except, God deliver us.
BEAUTY ET LA BÊTE
Monsieur Hubert de Givenchy maintenant roule dans sa tombe. Since his storied house just Inaugurally-dressed Ivanka.
Why does this feel like such an assault on human decency?
Well, because La Maison de Givenchy just duplicated the exact couture (and I believe until now one-of-a-kind?) work of art that Hubert de Givenchy designed in 1953 for Audrey Hepburn- for her starring role in the 1954 film “Sabrina”.
To draw any connection, between Audrey and Ivanka, is insulting to those of us who care about anyone other than ourselves.
A quick catch-up on Audrey: She was Monsieur de Givenchy’s muse/lifelong best friend, who was born into European aristocracy, and who from a young age suffered-then-starved during WWII under the Nazis. Audrey Hepburn never forgot what it felt like for her family to lose everything- and for them to be left to die.
As UNICEF Ambassador, Audrey Hepburn traveled extensively. Making many trips to feed those in need- in, as Ivanka’s dad describes them- "shithole” African nations. Audrey worked tirelessly caring for the world’s children- to whom she gave her whole heart.
Ivanka appears not to have a heart. As an architect of evil.
So what a sad moment then for Hubert de Givenchy, for the stain on the house that bears his name.
[If you have not read Robert Matzen's 2019 biography of Audrey called "Warrior: Audrey Hepburn"- it is a must for this moment.]
FOXCASTER FASHION FANTASIES: AND MAGA “STUDIO STYLE”.
The vibe: “I’m so brainwashed I even dress like Fox(‘Casters) - and their national-isty studio-stage-set too! Because I can’t think for myself!!!”
Kellyanne Conway and that Ginni Thomas (the one and only) were early adopters. Wrapping themselves in Fox’s creepy/culty shades of “Liberty” red, white, and blue.
Should you need a visual re: the “aesthetic”, please google “Kellyanne Conway/This is What Happens When The Gays Won’t Dress You” for a sight to behold. (And yes, it’s real).
Elsewhere in Fox Fantastical, while followers of Fox & Friends of course seek inspiration from their ’Casters live, daily, on state tv- they also tune in to FoxNews.fashion.blog. Which is its own head-imploding platform. Celebrating “The Fashion of Fox News Anchors” and “The Latest Outfits Worn on Fox!!!”. WOW!!!!!!!!!
We would otherwise cry laughing. But we can’t. Since it’s all so ugly- inside and out.
The scariest thing? Neither “Fox Nor Fans” will ever understand- that “the highest form of elegance is truth”.
THIS SEASON IN PURGATORY
Oscar de la Renta’s lovely tradition of dressing first ladies and other political figures- on both sides of the aisle- is just that. Amazing.
So perhaps the house of ODLR simply saw this year as just another U.S. Inauguration?
WHYYYYYYY.
Sure, Usha Vance sparkled in an Oscar strapless black velvet number, at The National Gallery Dinner the night before the Inauguration. And yes, she made an elegant entrance the next day swathed in “Oscar powder pink”, for her husband’s Swearing In.
But what was in the minds of the humanly decent- as we absorbed the visuals in those moments re: Usha???
Why, we scrutinized her every facial expression. Looking for any shred of evidence. That she now deeply hates herself. Since she should.
In marrying herself off to Team Satan/Vance/Project 2025, Usha’s all-in; on the cruelty, chaos, and dismantling of the United States Constitution.
So for the house of ODLR to play high-heeled-fashion-footsie with these democracy destroyers- in dressing Usha- is sickening.
And even “Oscar powder pink” can’t cover up the ugliness of their intent.
NON. JUST NON. ON “NEUTRALITY”.
To quote Amy Odell’s awesome Substack "Back Row” (if you don't follow, you should):
"The day after the election, WWD asked 16 designers if they would dress her [Melania Trump], reporting:
Representatives for Michael Kors, Prabal Gurung, Diotima's Rachel Scott, Zankov's Henry Zankov, Sergio Hudson, House of Gilles' Gilles Mendel and his daughter Chloe, and Tanner Fletcher's Tanner Richie and Fletcher Kasell declined to comment, or said they were unavailable.”
As we witness the great sorting of humanity, the humanly decent among us are making a list- and checking it twice.
Since it’s critical to distinguish between who aligns behind evil- versus who stands up against.
In the lead up to Christmas, thoughtful children everywhere worry about their place on the “Naughty or Nice List”. The adults should do the same. But in this political moment what’s at stake is not a happy holiday.
It’s instead about “Heaven or Hell”; since any 2016/2020/2024 vote for Trump, support of MAGA, personal decision not to speak out/stand up against such obvious evil- is an indelible stain on one’s soul.
Bien sûr the great sorting will come for us all.
But it won’t be Santa deciding who goes where and why.
So hey illustrious creative crowd above, what a moment!!! Time to take the assignment seriously!!!
Because to quote Eli Wiesel, “If you are neutral in situations of injustice- then you have chosen the oppressor.”
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AND NOW AS PROMISED, WE PIVOT!!!!!
LIGHT, GLAMOUR, ACTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
We’re happy to add a new category- as a much-needed antidote to those above.
BRING ME A HIGHER LOVE: Designing For humanity! Celebrating Paris-based Fashion Designer Lutz Huelle.
But first a few visuals. All images below courtesy of @Lutz_Huelle_Paris. To include Lutz with former German Chancellor Angela Merkel:
Courtesy of @Lutz_Huelle_Paris
Courtesy of @Lutz_Huelle_Paris
Courtesy of @Lutz_Huelle_Paris
Courtesy of @Lutz_Huelle_Paris
Courtesy of @Lutz_Huelle_Paris
Courtesy of @Lutz_Huelle_Paris
Let’s start with Paris Vogue’s 2024 reviews of Lutz:
"Is Lutz Huelle Paris’ most underrated designer? Seeing him on the runway after a four-year gap, the thought came to mind.
Huelle deserves recognition for presenting one of the most delightfully clever and inventive collections of the week, proving that, despite a limited budget, with good ideas, a skillful handling of the métier and a sense of humor, you can deliver a knockout show.”
And now my own thoughts on Lutz:
Lutz Huelle enjoys a very fashionny-insider following in Paris, to include Loic Prigent and model & muse Suzi de Givenchy (yes, family member of “Hubert”/see above). Yet Lutz’s presence is also globally felt, since in his heart he designs for those with big plans to change the world.
On that note “Refinement is Resistance” readers, am excited to share that my next Substack drop will feature my own interview with Lutz Huelle.
Please subscribe now below, so you don’t miss!!!
NOW ON TO NEW YORK!!!!!!!!!
THE POWER OF STYLE: AN INTERVIEW WITH THE ANONYMOUS FOUNDER OF @NEWYORKERSINNEWYORKNY
Photo courtesy of @NewYorkersinNewYorkNY
WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN FASHION AND STYLE?
Fashion is, give or take, a $40 billion global industry. Style is how we navigate fashion; through what we wear, how, and why.
DO YOU SEE STYLE AS STEALTH COMMUNICATION?
Personal style is “wearable energy”. Those who possess it often gain the critical edge; to land the job, the invitation, the date. Since they understand its power to elevate the room, bridge alliances, and get big things done.
Photo courtesy of @NewYorkersinNewYorkNY
HOW MIGHT WE THINK ABOUT FASHION?
Fashion is alive; it creates ongoing shifts in culture, art, politics, technology, and much more.
Fashion speaks to us through designers, models, stylists, and runway show production teams. But it also communicates with us everywhere else; on the streets, and in the rooms that we inhabit socially and professionally.
If we’re paying attention, fashion teaches us to embrace different ideas and new perspectives.
HOW MIGHT WE THINK ABOUT STYLE?
Style is inner self-understanding emanating outward. And we all contribute to a global style vibration, just by getting dressed every day.
Stand-out style often has an unexpected/improvised/unfinished element to it which mystifies its observers. Who describe the individual whose style they admire- as having a certain “je ne sais quoi”.
HOW DOES THE DEVELOPMENT OF PERSONAL STYLE EVEN START?
It starts in our teens and twenties by taking an inventory of our strengths/weaknesses. And embracing both, to create individual perspective
Those who aspire “to fit in”, follow the crowd, or mindlessly mimick their best friend- will never possess it.
IF STREET STYLE WERE A SHORT FILM, WHAT ARE ITS VISUAL QUALITIES?
Street style has a humble quality to it. Its colors and proportions evoke the senses, settle inside us, and move on in a flash.
WHAT MAKES NEW YORK STREET STYLE SO UNIQUE?
Everything appears larger than life against the city’s incredible energy. Gritty or glamorous, uptown or downtown, east or west- New Yorkers always bring their “A-Game”.
WHAT ARE YOUR PERSONAL THOUGHTS ON THE FOLLOWING?
FASHION AS FOREIGN AFFAIRS:
Fashion breaks down borders, and builds alliances, by creating community and connection. It opens the mind and the heart to what is possible.
GRACE AS GEOPOLITICS:
Grace is inner kindness reflecting outward, and it is societal glue.
ELEGANCE AS ADVOCACY
Elegance is an air of ease stemming from character. Its ingredients are empathy and integrity.
INCLUSION AS ALWAYS IMPECCABLE:
Inclusiveness embraces our differences, to build something better.
REFINEMENT AS RESISTANCE:
Refinement is derived from self-improvement. Its qualities are cultural curiousness, style, grace- and that air of international flair.
More Thoughts:
“Fashion is in the daily air and it changes all the time, with all the events. You can even see the approaching of a revolution in clothes. You can see and feel everything in clothes.”
– Diana Vreeland (1903-1989), Former Vogue Editor and Consultant to The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute.
“Don’t make fashion own you; you decide what you are, what you want to express by the way you dress and the way you live.”
– Gianni Versace (1946-1997), Italian Fashion Designer
“You can have anything you want in life if you dress for it.”
– Edith Head (1897-1981), American Film and Television Costume Designer
“Your coat is your calling card.”
– Bill Cunningham (1929-2016), New York Times Photo Journalist
“Style is something each of us already has, all we need to do is find it.”
– Diane von Furstenberg, Fashion Designer and Cultural Icon