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Stylish sources & methods for buying vintage.
When I add a new piece to my wardrobe, I expect it to bring something special to the mix. Any “new friend” needs to get along marvelously with my “old friends”- in my limited closet- and bring something special to the party.
Which makes me think of Linda Fargo’s gold coat.
A brief catch-up on global style phenomenon Linda, though. The day I left Bergdorf Goodman’s Fashion & PR Office in June 1996 for American Vogue, Linda arrived as Bergdorf’s Director of Visual Display in charge of the store’s interior design and windows. She is now also in charge of everything else at Bergdorf Goodman.
And in the past decade or so, Bergdorf’s has curated many a “Linda’s” boutique in-store, an experience tailored to feel like shopping Linda’s own closet.
Last summer, I had the opportunity to shop Linda’s actual closet. On a sweltering New York weekend in a temporary space on 8th Avenue, Linda and two friends emptied their own closets — moved, and then organized them — so family, friends, and others could peruse through and perhaps purchase. It was a treasure trove of ready-to-wear and accessories from design houses and other sources, plus pieces picked up from their far flung travels.
I walked away from said sale with Linda’s vintage Michael Kors gold coat ($200), a pearl and diamanté choker collar ($100), and three divine chocolate brown bakelite cuff bracelets ($5 each), Venmo-ing Linda’s partner Tony for the lot on my way out. These items work wonderfully with the other pieces in my closet — adding some extra zing within.
Well-developed personal style evolves through multiple dimensions, careful consideration, and intention. And in collecting vintage, one uncovers/recovers special pieces; to give them new life, and honor those who once upon a time designed and produced them. And this practice is sustainable, which is important.
For many designers, especially of the independent variety, to see their larger body of work, past and present, in ongoing circulation- loved, appreciated, and enjoyed- is a thrill. One designer who pays close attention accordingly is Paris-based Lutz Huelle.
I own a couple of Lutz pieces from recent collections, which I purchased directly from the designer.
But a few years ago I also invested in a vintage Lutz Huelle “Over Sleeve” trench coat from his 2018 collection, which I sourced from a third party collector. I now pack it for any trip to Paris for its dramatic flair; it dresses up (cashmere short black dress, Miu Miu tall black boot with 5 inch block heel), or down (Stella McCartney skinny dark denim flares, men’s brown loafer).
In buying vintage, one must know oneself, and one’s wardrobe, perhaps much better than when shopping in other settings. It also helps to be able to reference in one’s mind a designers’ past work. The fabrics they work in- plus textures, cut, and essence.
So in this moment when the global fashion industry holds its breath against the Republican’s delusional and self-inflicted destruction of the U.S. and global economies — upending inventory, supply chains, and prices everywhere — one small silver lining is that these tariffs have (so far) not been imposed on vintage fashion purchased from abroad.
With that teeny, teeny, tiny bright spot in mind, below please find a list of vintage shops and resources for eyeballing and exploration.
Paris:
London:
Milan
And do check any return policy if purchasing. In buying on Vestiaire Collective for example, one must big picture budget in for mistakes. If something does not fit upon arrival, it cannot be returned- but remember that you can re-sell it here, stateside, on any number of platforms.
In the news: karma comes for Skadden Arps
You don’t have to bend over backwards to display a shred of self-dignity. Just ask the students who are reconsidering offers at law firms who agreed to cut deals with Trump.
“Big Law Firms Struck a Truce with Trump, and Set Off a Clash With Recruits: Law students at top schools reconsider offers at Skadden and other firms while associates cancel interviews in protest” read a Wall Street Journal headline this week, continuing: “Campus recruiting is the newest front in the Trump-induced turmoil at some of the countries most prominent law firms.”
The piece also mentions that Georgetown Law students cancelled a (job) recruiting event with Skadden Arps. Like, no need for you to come see us! We are the bright legal minds of the future, we have other nice options, so no thank you!
Georgetown’s mission of “Men & Women for Others” is not lost upon this crew; they get the assignment writ-large in standing up for what is right. This is what courage, conviction, and integrity look like — and human decency too.
So kudos, or, as we say to each other in our own Georgetown language, “Hoya Saxa.” Because our personal and professional associations turn into our individual reputation, actions have consequences, and our soul is clarified — or stained — through every choice we make in our lifetime.
To quote Michael Moore in his Substack this week: “I’ve been thinking a lot recently about the idea of bravery. About what it takes to stand up, to make yourself heard, to be a FORCE that forces a system to change. This kind of bravery comes in different forms. Not all of them are loud. Some are quiet. Some are small. But each action is a part of what we all must do.”
These Georgetown Law school students put serious skin in the game, since a big paycheck from Skadden could make quite a dent in their law school tuition loans. This moment reveals the depth of their character. They understand what matters most right now- as they put into critical practice “each action is part of what we must all do.”
You are crushing it Maria!