If The Cutlery Could Talk?
A toast to Paris' L'Entente, Le British Brasserie.
Paris-based entrepreneur Jane Bertch, and author of the best-selling and much beloved The Paris Ingredient, recently posted the image above, with a heading that read, “I know there is a saying ‘if these walls could talk’…But imagine if cutlery could talk? Especially those that have overheard French dinner parties for decades…”
I was struck by the idea. And commented, “What a divine concept. And seriously!” Jane’s response to me: “One day we will have lunch, and will give that set of cutlery something to talk about!”
I look forward to lunch with Jane (obviously). Until then, I know someone else whose cutlery must have stories to tell.
That person is Oliver Woodhead, gentleman about Paris, stealth unofficial British Ambassador, and owner/founder of L’Entente, Le British Brasserie. I profiled L’Entente last year in: “A Recipe for Diplomacy with Paris Restauranteur Oliver Woodhead.” L’Entente is named for L’Entente Cordiale — a 1904 diplomatic agreement forged between England and France in the lead-up to World War I.
If building community is a way of keeping faith with the world, Oliver has epically prevailed. In replicating the best of British cuisine, in the heart of Paris, Oliver has — intentionally or not — elevated relations between the U.K. and France since 2018.
In the last eight years, L’Entente developed quite the following, including former French President François Hollande and the British Ambassador to France. The restaurant’s storied dining room witnessed big name fashion players like legendary fashion journalist Suzy Menkes, Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Petar Petrov, Monica Ainley DLV, Tamu McPherson, TyLynn Nguyen, Katie Grand, Charlotte Stockdale, and British Vogue’s Sarah Harris.
I was invited to stop by one sunny morning in April 2024 for a pre-open, pre-lunch visit. It felt like crashing a fabulous cast party.
At 10:00 am, the place was popping, complete with an array of journalists: a food critic, a techno-pop music reporter, a culture writer all lined up at the bar, drinking coffee and tea served by Oliver. Produce partners paraded through, with the freshest and most carefully selected ingredients that they personally presented to Oliver and his chef. Add to that local friends who simply stopped by to say hi to Oliver on their way to work. The sense of connection felt like something which would have been perfectly normal in the ‘90s.
Oliver had of course begun the day much earlier than the rest of us by going on BBC Radio as “Their Man in Paris.” As the sun rose in both countries, and all of England sipped tea at the kitchen table, Oliver updated everyone back home on the state of preparations in Paris, in the lead up to the Summer Olympics. Plus anything else going on in Paris.
In his 1759 novel Candide, French philosopher Voltaire famously wrote, “Il faut cultiver notre jardin,” which means “we must cultivate our garden.” Oliver has done this existentially.
My first visit to L’Entente took place with my husband on a sleepy Sunday night in Paris in November 2019, months before the whole world shut down. We sat at the bar, and I still remember the squash soup we shared. It was as warm, cosy, and delicious as the setting.
There were other visits, and one of the most memorable was with my daughter Margaux. She loved L’Entente too. For the divine design, the gorgeous service, and of course the melt in your mouth everything. And, of course, the vibe, which felt like being in on a really special dinner party.
L’Entente is a masterclass in do-it-yourself diplomacy, with Oliver presiding as Ambassador-at-Large presiding, forging friendships, building alliances, connecting through commonality, and trading in some juicy gossip as well no doubt.
Can you imagine the conversations the cutlery at L’Entente has overheard in the past eight years? Inquiring minds must wonder.
Last week, I received a text from Oliver with the news that L’Entente’s existence has run its course. I have no doubt Oliver’s next act will be stellar. But losing L’Entente — in this dour moment in global relations — feels like a blow.
To my Paris-based readers, L’Entente’s last day is Wednesday March 4.
If you do pop by, please raise a glass to Oliver’s incredible accomplishments.
And also make a toast to him, from me.
L’Entente, Le British Brasserie:
13 rue Monsigny, 75002 Paris, +33 1 47 42 92 35
OOHHHH I love this!!! You are starting a movement!